Composition(s)

Composition in photography is often seen as a pure technical detail. Often considered as less important than framing (the art of what’s inside and outside the frame), timing (the art of choosing the decisive moment to click the shutter) or the choice of film (BW, color), composition is nonetheless capable of conveying the right message if properly mastered.

Defined as the technique to set up and arrange the elements in the frame, there are at least dozens of different compositional schemes (thirds, golden ratio, diagonal, triangular, symmetrical…) as well as ways to avoid them. Although I think I compose things more or less in the same frame regardless of the film format, I’ve always wondered whether my photos convey a different message if they are taken in 6×6, 6×7 or 35mm format. The first two formats in particular are the ones I am more interested in, as I shoot almost every portrait within these two classic options. My stats tell me that I’ve used the 6×6 format roughly 60% of the time, leaving the 6×7 to a mere 40%…but what does it mean? Can I say that I prefer the first over the second? Is it just a matter of economy (12 shots per roll vs 10 shots per roll – and considering the price of film these days, these things count!)? Let’s find out.

6×6: the elegant square

The square format is often associated with timeless elegance and harmony. Tons of ink has been used to describe the philosophical purity of its geometry and I am certainly biased when I use my 6×6 cameras to compose as if the moment was somehow solemn, even formal. That does not mean the photos are static or rigid, but in a way the format reminds me of the introspection look of Richard Avedon or Irving Penn or even Anton Corbjin photos and I feel like I owe more respect to the sitter in front of my lens.

6×7: the tension is here

A mere 15% increase in one dimension cannot make such a difference, can it? All in all, you just add a 1cm strip, how can things be so wildly different? Well in reality things are different when you choose 6×7: that extra space allows you to introduce the orientation variable (horizontal vs vertical) and to my eyes it gives the photo a touch of tension that is more controlled in 6×6. Peter Lindbergh, Herb Ritts, Araki all used the 6×7 format and I could not imagine them using anything else. To be fair I could include Avedon in this category as well for his large format 8×10 work (which is very close to the 6×7 ratio)

My philosophy (or lack thereof)

I tend to always carry two cameras for my portrait sessions, a Hasselblad for the 6×6 and either a Pentax67 or a Mamiya RZ67 for the…you guessed it…6×7 format. The reason is purely for security reasons: the 6×7 cameras are electronic marvels and as such they tend to fail and break, as it happened to me in the past; having a Hasselblad which is a total mechanical wonder is a warranty that if anything goes wrong, I can still have some shots.

That said I always felt that I used the two format to take different photos, but I never had the occasion to prove it. With that idea in mind I recently decided to take exactly the same pictures on a recent shooting in order to compare the results afterwards and see if my intuition was right. I came to the conclusion that…I don’t know! There are reasons why I sometimes choose one format over the other, but those reasons are more intuitions than weighted thoughts.

If I really need to give a post-shooting explanation, I can see that the images where I wanted to convey a sense of intimacy or something that comes from deep inside, I tend to prefer the square format (as you can see on the images on the right column) while in those cases where I want to share a bold presence I prefer the 6×7 option (as in the center column). The most clear example is probably the images on the left column, which share an almost identical framing and composition yet in the square format the model is directing all her body within herself, looking down to the hourglass, while in the 6×7 shot she is more open to the outer world.

And you, what do you think? How do you choose your format?

Fomapan200 is gorgeously the worst film ever…let me explain.

I’ve been using film for the last two decades and I’ve developed thousands of rolls, mixed the classic developers, experimented, used all the gorgeous medium format cameras that you can dream of, so I think I might be somehow relevant in what I am about to say. Fomapan 200 is one of the most beautiful stock option yet I will never use it again in my life until its serious quality issues are fixed for good.

Why I fell in love in the first place

Let me first start by saying what is good about it: as all the products from Foma, it has a quite nostalgic and old style look that bring an interesting punch on the negatives. These are probably not the easiest to print (contrast is usually quite high), they require condenser enlargers to add the crispness you may lack from the lower resolving power (it is said Foma200 used both traditional and tabular grain but the Tmax, Delta or Acros are on another league), the real speed is usually far from the one announced on the box, and are the curliest ones when dried up. But when you consider how cheap they are, you easily forgive and want to use them.

Below are three examples of how the film can shine when all the planets are aligned. It cannot out-resolve the spectacular performances of the Zeiss Planar 80mm on the Hasselblad shot or the SMC 105mm 2.4 on the Pentax67 portrait, nonetheless you can easily think these are taken with a TriX or HP5. (the first is developed in Rodinal 1+100, the other two in XTOL 1+1).

And now, the bad news

I tried hard…I gave it another chance multiple times, but I have to face it: the quality control of the production chain of Foma film is really bad (not to say it’s completely s…it). 120 format seems the worst of it all, with scratches and emulsion inconsistencies in many cases. Large format and 135 are usually a safer bet, although tiny issues may be found from time to time.

While I think Fomapan400 and Fomapan100 are still acceptable (given the price tag), where things get nasty is with the 200 and images are simply not usable.

Full disclosure: I keep my film in the fridge as I’ve always done with other brands, and whenever I need to use it I take it out hours before loading the camera. I also tried to store it at normal temperature in a dry place, but the results were the same. I’ve used different Hasselblad backs, I loaded a Mamiya RZ67, a Pentax67 and a Pentacon Six…nothing seem to change the outcome that you will see down below. I souped my films in XTOL, D76, Rodinal in the hope of better luck. Useless to say that on all the shootings I did I also used other films, and the same chemicals, and I never had a problem whatsoever. That is why I decided to stop wasting my money.

I contacted Foma last year and they referred to a quite curious paragraph in their datasheet, namely the fact that some medium format cameras may introduce the issues due their mechanics:

FOMAPAN 200 Creative emulsion contains T-crystals providing high resolution and very low granularity of the film. Relating to this it may emerge its higher sensitivity to mechanical strain mainly during movement of the rollfilm throughout some middle-format cameras. That may result in occurrence of desensitization records on developed negative. Within first usage of FOMAPAN 200 Creative type 120 it is recommended to test its compatibility with the particular camera.

Quite honestly, I am extremely doubtful that it might be the cause, and in that case I wonder which cameras should be used as I think I am quite lucky when it comes to choosing a tool to take pictures.


Exhibit 1

Vertical line in random positions of the frame (Pentax 67, XTOL 1+1)

Exhibit 2

Same roll as previous, vertical lines (Pentax 67, XTOL 1+1)

Exhibit 3

Same roll as previous, many straight and curved lines (Pentax 67, XTOL 1+1)

Exhibit 4

Individual lines, packed lines and rain-like marks (Hasselblad 501CM, D76 1+1)

Exhibit 5

Horizontal packed lines on the edge of the frame (Hasselblad 501CM, D76 1+1)

Exhibit 6

Same as previous (Hasselblad 501CM, D76 1+1)

Exhibit 7

Multiple rain-like marks across the frame (Pentax 67, XTOL 1+1)

Exhibit 8

Multiple rain-like marks across the frame (Pentacon Six, D76 1+1)

Exhibit 9

Multiple rain-like marks across the frame and vertical lines (Pentax 67, D76 1+1)

Exhibit 11

Heavily backlit photo showing multiple rain-like marks across the frame and vertical lines (Pentax 67, D76 1+1)

Exhibit 12

Multiple rain-like marks across the frame and vertical lines (Hasselblad 501CM, Rodinal 1+50)

Exhibit 13

Multiple rain-like marks across the frame and vertical lines (Hasselblad 501CM, Rodinal 1+50)

A thousand rolls after…

The title is a bit exaggerated as I did not reach one thousand rolls developed by me (still a couple of dozens) yet I felt it was time to take some numbers and do some analysis (all in all that is what I do for a living). Even though I’ve been playing with film photography since 2007-2008 (not to mention the fact that I’ve used film cameras as a teenager), it was only around 2013 that I stopped sending my film to a lab and decided to play with chemicals.

This post (which is boring in many ways) is just a recap of what I’ve been doing and what I’ve been drawn to…most of the times based on my artistic preferences, sometimes given the crazy price that some brands are asking these days (Kodak, Fuji…I’m talking to you!).

First things first…what do I usually shoot?

It should not be a surprise that Ilford takes the lead. There are many reasons for that: this company has a true longlasting love for the film community and has managed to keep its offering quite consistent and with a reasinable price given the high standards. At the very beginning I used to pick HP5+ as a cheap option to its main alternative TriX but with time I came to realise how perfect this film is in many ways. Very versatile, you can pull it at 200 or push it at 3200 iso, develop it in XTOL or Rodinal…the results are always fantastic. It is true that it might not have the most beautiful look but there is a reason why when I have to choose, one time out of three I pick it up.

The second most used option is another Ilford film, Delta 400. Technically speaking it is far superior to the Plus series (Tabular grain vs Cubic grain) and in some cases it really shines. The look is not too cynical (as you might get with Tmax400) and the contrast is fantastic when pushed at 800 iso.

When you don’t see in the graph is why I did not shoot more of some other options…I would love to go back and use TriX (there is indeed something magic) as well as Fuji Acros 100 (in terms of beauty of tones and grain I believe the best of them all), but I can’t justify paying 2x or 3x the price of other brands. You might be fooled by the numbers of Tmax400…most of those rolls are in 35mm where I simply believe there is nothing as good as that film.

The moment all techies have been waiting for: the cameras

It is true that the photo is made by the photographer…and the look is made by the film…yet I believe the tool used is important as well. Not necessarily on the final quality, as even though there are differences between the glass of a Zeiss glass for 6×6 and a Nikkor for 35mm, this is less important than you might think. On the other hand I realise that I take different pictures with different cameras, hence the choice is not completely useless.

Again no surprise here, Hasselblad V-series cameras are the ones I would choose should I have to go to a desert island. I started with the 500CM and eventually moved to a 501CM to leverage the Acute Matte screen and better focus (I’m indeed getting older). The sound of a rewind crank is one of the sexiest sound you can hear and composing on the ground glass is pure joy (although there are better options like the screen of a Mamiya RZ67).

Recently I’ve been enjoying also the 6×7 format, especially for portrait and with vertical orientation. The Pentax 67 is not a fantastic camera but its 105mm f2.4 is probably the best lens out there. Too bad it is quite complicated to focus perfectly (that’s why the Mamiya RZ67 is reducing the gap quite quickly), I still love the combo.

In 35mm the FM2n is a pure joy to use, and while the results are often not as good as I expect (I know, being used to medium format my standards are quite high) I tend to use it quite frequently especially when traveling.

How to cook all these?

I admit I did not experiment that much when it comes to developers choice. I started with Ilford DD-X but while it was really great, I quickly abandoned it given the high price per roll. I tend to use XTOL (roughly 50% of the time) and D76 (roughly 25% of the time) almost exclusively: the first is without any doubt the best overall developer as it is cheap, extremely easy to mix, quite environment-friendly and gives excellent results with all films (expect Bergger Pancro 400 where don’t know why but D76 is way better). When I’m in the mood, I also enjoy Rodinal, especially in stand development.

Final thoughts

Well…not sure what to take from all of this? Developing film is tedious, slow, un-efficient…yet I kind of like the wait and the mechanical process…and that’s why I think I’ll keep doing it for a long time.

Camera Porn 2017

After many years I had the possibility to indulge for a full day into pure camera drooling and technical tests at the Salon de la Photo in Paris. In recent years my obsession for the latest and best photography gear has been fading away, especially since I started being fascinated by the pure magic of film, yet I kind of like to see what can be realised these days with such (expensive) toys.

1585_d850The first camera I tried right away was the much rumoured Nikon D850, the latest Mpixel monster that recently received the highest score by the DxO company. Just to make things even more crazy, the camera came with an astounding piece of glass, the Nikkor 105mm f1.4, a portrait monster in its own class. Despite all the rings and bells, and even though the pictures came out fundamentally perfect, I can’t say I felt in love with it. Something is too cynical about those files and while I can clearly see how most people will love its perfection, I don’t think I might actually “enjoy” shooting with it.

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z-nikond810-front_nolensA somehow similar evaluation can be done for the Nikon D810, the “old” sibling of the latest D850. Technical tests basically prove that those two camera are really similar, with the latest model having “only” 1 stop of noise advantage (and a dozen of useless frills and bells that I don’t even remember). That said, I somehow felt less scared by the D810, maybe because I knew that its rapidly lowering price is making it an interesting deal. The photos I took are not perfectly in focus (or maybe it’s just that with so many Mpixel, using a telephoto beast like the 500mm f4 simply make it impossible to have tack sharp pictures) yet they show the incredible way the noise is handled even at Iso 10000

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fuji-x-pro-2-56mm-f12The Fujifilm X-Pro2 with the 56mm f1.2 was the camera that surprised me the most. I honestly don’t think that I would be able to tell a picture taken with it apart from another taken with a full frame camera. The colors straight out of the camera are really nice, the out-of-focus area is very very nice and the overall feeling is excellent (even though I am not a passionate of rangefinder cameras).

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Sticking with Fujifilm, the next camera that impressed me was the medium format GFX 50S, a 51MPixel robust and high quality product that produces very nice and balanced pictures. In reality the sensor has a “small” medium format size (especially if compared to the big brothers like Phase One and the Hasselblad 6D series) but in any case the outcome is remarkable.

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The last camera I tried, or at least the last worth mentioning (I tried a lot of other cameras, including the pretty disappointing Canon flagship models) is the Sony α9, another high Mpixel count monster that is, on paper, as good as the Nikon D850. The pictures are very well balanced and sharp (I cannot really say if they are better or worse than Nikon’s counterpart) but what really impressed me was its hyper fast autofocus as well as the high frame rate. 20170120-DSC00175

 

Tourists in Brussels

The typical tourist visiting Brussels is quite weird: from 8am to 6pm the city centre is crowded with huge streams of asians, european-lovers and ordinary families eating chocolates, waffles and french fries. In other words, ideal setting for funny, weird street portraits.

Technical info: Pentacon Six > Carl Zeiss Jena Biometar 80mm f2.8 > Kodak Portra 400

Shooting Palermo

I enjoy more and more shooting film. As everyone say, it forces to slow down, think and observe way more than digital photography. This summer I finally enjoyed taking pictures of ordinary people on the street, not worrying about checking the correct exposure on the back of my DSLR, whether I nailed the focus on the very centre of the eyes of my subjects or I had blurred results.

I like to think I was inspired by “Palermo shooting“, a very strange yet interesting Wim Wenders movie where the main character discover Palermo with a Makina Plaubel 67 (lucky him). Even if that’s not true (I always take a stroll down the narrow streets of the old city when I’m back home) I somehow stepped into the very same characters and situations.

12 shots…12 loud, slowly “click” on my (not so trusty) Pentacon Six…12 moments of a summer hot saturday up and down the old streets of Palermo.

The Pentacon Six is not my first Medium Format film camera, but it’s the first I really used in a effective way. I bought it because I’ve always loved those rich, black and white shots with shallow depth of field and a grainy look, but surprisingly I found in love with the richness of color film. Kodak Portra is fantastic, the skintones are magnificent and light years ahead of my (pretty damn good) Nikon D700 files. I don’t know whether the shutter speeds on my camera are a bit “slow” or the my lab tend to underexpose the scans, but I found to have great results if I overexpose the Portra 160 by 2/3 of a stop, rating it at 100 (no pushing on development). The colors are just amazing.

Technical info: Pentacon Six > Carl Zeiss Jena Biometar 80mm f2.8 > Kodak Portra 160